Pan de muerto, the tradition of honoring the deceased through food and drink

Pan de muerto speaks of a very special tradition practiced by Mexicans: honoring their dead in a way that is very different from what most people on the American continent are used to. The funerary traditions of Mexico’s Indigenous peoples—traditions that deeply permeate contemporary Mexican culture—focus on remembering the dead with love, gratitude for the time shared, honoring them, and asking for their protection. This is done through food, drink, music, dance, and color. As part of this celebration, with pre-Hispanic roots and European influence, modern pan de muerto was born.

In October and November, especially on November 1st and 2nd, Mexican homes are filled with altars adorned with marigolds (cempasúchil) and cockscomb flowers, candles, and photos of loved ones, along with their favorite foods and drinks. Streets throughout the country overflow with decorations of skulls, Catrinas, colorful paper banners, flowers, and foods such as pan de muerto, fruits, atole (a thick, hot corn-based drink), hot chocolate, tamales, mole, and more. On Día de Muertos, families gather to remember and honor their deceased loved ones, offering and enjoying the special delicacies of this celebration.

Pan de muerto is round and topped with “bones” made of dough that become crispy when baked, as well as a dusting of sugar that adds even more crunch. The bread’s crumb is incredibly soft, thanks to butter and eggs introduced by the Spanish. There is the traditional pan de muerto, made with plain dough and white sugar, but there are also dozens of fillings and additions that make it even more special. Additions include sesame seeds or totomoxtle ash (burnt corn husk), and fillings such as chocolate, dulce de leche, lemon cream, Lotus cookie cream—my favorite—among many others.

Pan de muerto is one of the results of the cultural blending between pre-Hispanic and Spanish cultures. The pre-Hispanic cultures of what is now known as Mexico had traditions of offering food and drink to the dead; they prepared papallotlaxcali, a type of tortilla stamped with a butterfly seal. The Spanish, in turn, ate pan de ánimas to honor their dead—a custom that has faded over time. European baking techniques and ingredients merged with pre-Hispanic beliefs and ingredients, giving rise to the pan de muerto we know today, a deeply important symbol of Mexican culture.